SKIS

There are hundreds of different skis on the market, all designed with a certain skier in mind. Buying a pair can get a little complicated & it’s often easy to get confused with technical jargon. Here at Snowtrax we like to make life easy, read our simple guide to help you pick the right ski...

Firstly we’ll run through the different things you’ll have to consider. You’ll need to decide what type of ski you want & you’re ability level. Then you’ll need to consider the shape of the ski, width under foot & the flex rating. Finally you’ll need to determine what size to buy?

Every ski we stock has been extensively tested. We try to provide as much information to help you make the right choice. Please read the descriptions carefully & look out for our ski tester comments. Try using our ski selector, a handy guide to narrow down the range to a few different options.

Gender

Firstly, are you female? A simple, but important question! Women have a different body build to men, with a lower centre of gravity; causing them to lean back more when they ski. They are also lighter than men. This is all taken into account when designing a female specific ski. The bindings are usually mounted slightly further forward & the skis are generally lighter with a slightly softer flex pattern. There are a large amount of female specific skis on the market, if you’re a female skier of any level it’s worth buying one.

Ski Type

Take your time, and read all the categories below. Try & define one or two types of ski that really reflects where & how you like to ski. Piste, Powder, Park or wherever you love to spend your time.

On Piste

As the name suggests, if you spend most of your time on piste then this is the type of ski to go for. In general piste skis are narrower underfoot with more shape so they turn and grip the snow quickly & precisely. Look at the turn radius of each ski; most piste skis will have a relatively small turn radius allowing short sharp turns. However, if you venture into fresh snow or dabble in a little off piste consider looking at an all mountain ski...

All Mountain

A very popular category, ideal for skiing a variety of terrain. Simply put, these are wider, fatter piste skis. They have the shape to offer excellent grip & response on the piste, with extra floatation for days when the snow is falling. Keep an eye on the width underfoot, fatter means more fun in the powder but slightly less manoeuvrability on the piste.

Freeride

For those that want to access the whole mountain & have a passion for skiing powder – Waist deep in the morning, then piste in the afternoon! A freeride ski is light, nimble, with plenty of surface area. The end result is a shape that works on the piste & offers control, manoeuvrability & floatation in powder. Most of these skis come as a “flat deck” without an integrated binding system; this keeps the whole set up much lighter which is great for the powder! Freeride skis are also ideal for setting up with a touring or telemark binding.

Big Mountain

Super fat for the ultimate powder experience! If you spend most your time off piste & see the groomed runs as a way to get from A to B this could be what your after. Awesome fun & surprisingly agile on the piste! If you get a chance to test some of these go for it, one of the best decisions you’ll ever make!

Freestyle

Twin tip skis that are happy whichever way you point them! Freestyle is a big growth area in the ski world & has producedsome of the most versatile skis on the market. Plenty of pop & snap make the skis lively & playful. They have an increased surface area, great for landing big airs, but also handy in the powder. If you love hitting the park then this is what you want, if not, it’s still worth considering as an alternative to a freeride ski.

Race

For advanced & expert skiers who want extreme piste performance. If you’re a fast aggressive skier & stick to the piste, then this type of ski will be perfect. A tuned up piste ski with an aggressive shape for carving.

Ability Level

Now there’s no need to go showing off here, buying a pair skis to suit your ability is very important. On the other hand, be realistic, don’t talk yourself down, you don’t want to have to upgrade after only a couple of weeks on the snow. If you’re unsure then please don’t hesitate to call one of our experts.

Level 1 – Just starting out

Skiing is new to you; you may have had some lessons on a UK dry or snow slope, or maybe 1 or 2 weeks on snow.

A ski with a softer flex rating will be ideal, usually a piste ski or freestyle ski to get you started. This is the first step up from a rental ski, offering far more enjoyment on the snow!

Level 2-4 – Intermediate

2 – You’re still using a snowplough to stop & have discovered how to manoeuvre to the left & right. Sticking mainly to the nursery slopes at low speeds.

3 – You’ve started to link snowplough turns & are happy cruising down shallow terrain, exploring blue runs.

4 – You’ve mastered the basics & are confident on less challenging slopes. On more demanding slopes you’re cautious & often still use a snowplough to slow down.

For levels 2-4 a ski with a soft to mid flex rating will be suitable, offering easy turn initiation with more control at modest speeds. This will help you build on your technique & style. You’ll probably want to go for a piste ski, but don’t rule out a freestyle, all mountain or freeride ski with a softer flex pattern.

Level 5-7 – Advanced

5 – You are now starting to develop your technique, occasionally using the snowplough for easy turn initiation. You’re happy skiing on easy red runs & turn up the pace on mellow blues.

6 – You’re perfecting your parallel turns on less challenging terrain, gaining in confidence on reds. You manage to get down most black runs.

7 – You are confidently linking parallel turns on most slopes with great technique. You can get down steep & icy blacks, but style goes out the window! You may even have attempted some slope side powder.

For levels 5-7 a ski with a mid to firm flex rating will be suitable, offering grip & control at a variety of speeds. This will help you maintain a smooth & fluid technique on all types of runs. You may want to consider an all mountain, freestyle or freeride ski. These will help if you’re skiing on piste whilst it’s snowing.

Level 8-9 – Expert

8 – You’re happy to ski on any run in most conditions, maybe venturing into the powder without much worry. Skiing at high speed is not a problem & you have mastered carving turns.

9 – You’ll tackle anything that the mountain has to offer, steep icy blacks, off piste & may even unclip your skis to hike up & hit some fresh lines.

For levels 8-9 a ski with a firm flex rating will be suitable, giving you grip & control at high speeds. This allows you to burn down the piste without having to worry that the ski is going to feel twitchy & unpredictable. You should know what type of skiing you’re into, or maybe you’re up for a new challenge. You’re probably looking for an all mountain, freestyle or freeride ski; if you love the powder consider a big mountain ski.

Level 10 – Race

10 – Congratulations, you are a pro! You’re probably a qualified instructor or regularly participate in competitions.

You’re an expert skier who is looking for a set of stiff aggressive skis.

You’ll want to pick a race ski to give you the ultimate piste performance. Loads of grip at top speeds!

SKI SHAPE AND FLEX

Side cut

The shape of a ski is shown by the side cut. This is the width of the ski at the tip, waist & tail. For example – 120/68/119 (178cm). This ski has a tip width of 120mm, waist width of 68mm & tail width of 119mm. The number in brackets tells you the length of ski that the measurements are applicable for, as the shape of some models will vary slightly over different lengths.

Width

The width of a ski underfoot is shown as the middle number of the sidecut. Using the example above the width is 68mm. This measurement is an important indicator of how the ski will behave in powder & on piste. If it’s nice & wide underfoot then it will help stop the ski sinking, giving you more control in fresh snow. If it’s narrow then the ski will be ideal for short sharp turns on piste. Typically a width of 66-76mm will be found on a piste or race ski, anything between 76-98mm will usually be an mountain, freestyle or freeride ski & everything over 100mm will be a big mountain ski.

Turn Radius

The turn radius is an indication of how quickly the ski turns. The shorter the turn radius the sharper the ski will turn on piste. This is displayed with a ski length in brackets; as the turn radius of a particular model will vary slightly depend on the length of the ski.

Flex

The flex or stiffness of a ski will vary depending on what the ski’s designed for. Stiffer skis will take more energy to flex but will reward you with outstanding grip. A softer ski is far more manoeuvrable at slower speeds, giving confidence & grip in icy conditions.

As a rule of thumb, a soft ski is great for a beginner & a super stiff ski is suitable for an expert. There are exceptions to this, if you want a freestyle ski for jibbing & buttering then you’ll want plenty of flex, also some advanced big mountain skis will be super soft for riding in deep snow. But as a general guide, stiffer skis will give stability at speed.

SKI SIZE

Before we move onto the size of ski you require, it is important that you know the type of ski. Each type of ski is specific & you’ll need to go for a certain length depending on the ski. For example, if you ski a race slalom ski in a 165cm, you may well need a 178cm freeride ski or a 185cm big mountain ski.

If you’ve followed this guide from the top, hopefully you’ll know what type of ski you’re after. The length you’ll need will depend on your weight, height & ability level.

Use this visual guide as an indication for the length of ski you need.

Weight

Although it’s easier to work out the length of ski based on your height, it’s a good idea to take into account your weight. After all, a ski will react to your weight, not your height. Use the chart below to give you an idea of the size of ski you’ll need:

Total : Your perfect ski length will be the nearest size, although you may wish to adapt this for your own personal taste.

Still Stuck?

Then why not contact one of our experts. Call on 01202 499155 ext 2 or email us. By providing us with some basic information we can help you make the right choice. We’ll need to know your weight, height, skiing ability & a description of the type of skiing you enjoy. Let us know which skis you’re interested in & we’ll help you decide what to go for & what size.

SKI BOOTS

Buying ski boots is not something that can be done in 5 minutes. Unlike buying a new pair of shoes a ski boot requires a precise fit. Each model of boot has a different shape & will suit a certain foot type.

We highly recommend that you visit us to ensure you get the best possible fit.

We offer full analysis of your feet, free of charge.

A boot fitting will typically involve:

• Precise measurement of each foot & analysis of foot shape.
• Selection of a range of boots determined from the measurements taken, your skiing experience, weight, ankle shape and calf shape.
• Shell check to ascertain if the size is correct.
• Several suitable boots will be tried on for initial fit.
• A footbed will usually be recommended; various options are available & will be discussed.
• The best fitting boot will then have the liner custom moulded to your feet; we may also stretch the shell as this point to offer a more customised fit.
• The boots then need to be broken in at home before hitting the slopes!
• Re fitting is free of charge & often only requires a few minor adjustments to enhance the fit & comfort.

This is why we recommend visiting the store to purchase your boots!!

All our ski boots are sized in Modopoint. This is an international measurement that all boot manufactures use, therefore it is easy to compare one make to another. Below is a conversion chart you can use as a rough guide.

SKI POLES

Buying a correctly sized ski pole is important. Skiing with the wrong size can offset your balance & lead to poor technique.

Here’s a guide to size yourself up for the right length of ski pole.

1. Place your arms at your sides and hold your forearm out at a 90 degree angle (as if you were carrying a box).

2. Make sure that your upper arms are touching your sides, and your forearms are out in front of you, as if you were holding ski poles.

3. Make a fist as if you were gripping imaginary ski poles & raise your thumb into the “thumbs up” position.

4. Have a friend measure the distance from the top of your thumb to the floor.

5. If you don’t have someone to measure this distance for you, stand next to a wall & lightly mark the spot where the top of your thumb is. Then, measure from that mark to the floor.

6. Round this length

SNOWBOARDS

You’re excited and want to buy a new snowboard. They all look good but which one should you get? Two basic questions first. How good are you? And where do you want to go?

Honesty will get you further here than your mum and dad ever promised! A beginner about to head out on a season will grow out of a beginner board very quickly compared to a beginner going on holiday for a week, so think about how much snowboarding is waiting around the corner for you.

Beginner

Less than 3 weeks on a stick, turns are just about there, friends are digging you out of deep snow after each powder turn!

Intermediate

You’re everywhere on the hill, turns are good, shredding lines between lifts, trying to tickle out a bit of switch, straight airs are your holiday snaps.

Advanced

You forget you’re actually going switch, cliff drops are intentional, and you use hand plants to attract the opposite sex.

Sorted out what level you are? Now it’s deciding where on the hill you want to be?

Jib sticks

Rail riders look here. Butter that crumpet. These boards are short, twin shaped, forgiving, cheap and strong. Beginners should also look here as this is perfect first steps snowboarding wrapped in fun!

Freestyle

Anything in the park is yours for the taking. Slightly stiffer than a jib stick, with more pop for when you go big. Still short and easy to spin, true twin or directional twin, this is for the rider in the park and out.

All Mountain

The whole mountain is yours. Directional shape hard pack, laid back powder turns and that odd trip into the park when your mate drags you there.

Freeride

You scoped your line, hiked it, dropping into steep couloirs, stomping cliff drops and long lazy cut backs. If no one else is there, you are.

WHAT SIZE

The usual thing you are told when sizing up for a board is that it should be anywhere between your collar bone and nose. If you’re a Giraffe then you’re stuffed! But don’t worry. You’ve decided what type of snowboard you want, which is good because depending on what you use it for you will want different sizes. Everyone has a range of sizes they can ride, dependent on height, weight, foot size, ability and what type of riding they want to do. A freestyle snowboard or an All Mountain board will be sitting more in the middle of that size range because they are the most versatile boards for all kinds of riding styles. A pure jib stick will be short, because you want to spin quicker than a tumble dryer. Powder boards can be as long as you want depending on if you’re Heli-dropping in Alaska or hitting lift lines in the Alps. Shorter snowboards will turn quicker but longer boards will float more in softer snow. By choosing what you want to do on your snowboard, you can check you have the correct length.

Work out what sort of build you fit into. Then what sort of board you want. Find it on the chart, because 60% of the time, it works every time. If you don’t know how to use a chart you shouldn’t be allowed a credit card.

Napoleon (55-65kg) – short but still trying to conquer the world

Average Joe (65-75kg) – police line ups don’t worry you

Green Giant (75kg+) – buildings look small to you

SNOWBOARD BINDINGS

Bindings are often neglected but are arguably the most important part of your set up. The right binding can increase your comfort levels, give you infinite adjustment or just help you get in and out easier than KY jelly.

Exactly the same as buying a snowboard, think about what level you are at now and also what level you’re riding will be at in the future. If you buy a beginners snowboard now but plan to get a pro stick further down the line, you can take your bindings with you, instead of buying a new board and bindings when the time comes. Just remember that although some more expensive bindings will be stiffer and more difficult for a novice to use, on the whole, when you pay more you get better materials, comfort and features yet still something usable for a first timer.

Some brands specifically design their boards and bindings to work together but generally the method of fixing bindings to a board is universal across the industry which means you can take your pick. You may want a different make of binding to your board to utilise a quick entry system or to work well with your new rocker board. If you are unsure just ask.

Sizing differs between brands so please check which size will fit your boot best. Some boots feature a reduced length (i.e. Salomon and Burton) making them size realistically a whole size down whereas some boots fit wider (i.e. DC, 32’s and Vans) and need a bigger binding. Again, if you are unsure, please ask.

SNOWBOARD BOOTS

In an ideal world you should try on a few pairs of boots before you make your final decision. Sometimes this isn’t always possible but with all our boots being heat mouldable it makes sense taking advantage of this. New boots always take a few days, if not weeks to break-in but this can be done within 20 minutes in store by one of our snowboard technicians. At the same time they can advise how the boots should feel in terms of size and stiffness. Foot problems? No worries, further customisation can also be done with more supportive foot beds, heat packs etc.

If you can’t make it in store, no worries, your boots will mould in time to your feet, it just takes that bit longer. A few hints for the perfect fit are:

Start with your UK shoe/trainer size. - Your toes should be comfy whilst not lost in the boot.

Bend your knees and flex forward. Your toes come away from the end of the boot? This is good, we don’t want cramped toes. Lean on your heels and make sure your toes don’t pop out of the boot!

Get onto tip toes. Do your heels lift out the back of the boot? Up to 1cm is ok as this will be cancelled out by your binding ankle strap.

For further advice please contact us.

HELMETS

Helmets are fast becoming a mainstream piece of equipment for all skiers & snowboarders, no matter what standard you are. A helmet should fit snugly on your head but not so tight it gives you a headache! We stock a vast range of helmets for all head shapes & sizes.

The most important thing when buying a helmet is that it fits properly on your head. It should be comfortable and offer you the best protection. Follow our guide to get properly sized.

1. Wrapping a tape measure around your head from the middle of your forehead around the back of your head. This measurement will be your helmet size, usually in cm.

2. Upon receiving your helmet. Align the front of the helmet above your eyebrows and pull the helmet over the back of your head. If the helmet has an adjustable fit system ensure this is set at its largest setting.

3. Tighten up any adjustable system until the helmet feels snug.

4. Make sure there are no unwanted gaps between the helmet lining and your head. Make sure the back of the helmet does not touch the back of your neck.

5. The helmet should fit snugly, give your head a little shake you shouldn’t feel your head knocking around inside the helmet.

6. Make sure the helmet fits well with your goggles.

Remember, you only have one head, it’s worth looking after!

JACKETS

One of the most important pieces of kit you’ll need to hit the mountains. A good ski or snowboard jacket is a vital ingredient to an enjoyable holiday. Whether you’re going for the first time or are a seasoned pro, your ski jackets is worth some investment.

Three key features of a jacket are that they are waterproof, windproof & breathable. The amount of protection a jacket can offer depends on its ability to perform these 3 functions. The grade & quality of fabrics used will determine how the jacket performs.

On top of this some jackets will have taped seams to avoid water penetration through the seams of the jacket. Garments can be critically taped, offering protection behind the most exposed seams, or fully taped, offering full protection. One of the most common questions we get asked is the difference between an £100 jacket & a £600 jacket. Well it’s simply the quality of the fabrics, materials & craftsmanship that goes into the jacket. Just by trying a jacket on you can feel the difference.

Our advice would be to spend what you can afford. All the jackets we stock have been tried & tested. If they don’t cut the grade then we don’t stock them. Have a think about the use you’re going to get out of your jacket. If you’re heading out for a season then it’s worth scraping together a few extra pennies, but if it’s a one week holiday in March then there may be no need to blow your budget. Please contact us if you’d like some more advice.

PANTS

It’s a similar story to a jacket, pant’s should be waterproof, windproof & breathable. Pants are often overlooked & bought as something that matches your jacket. It’s important to look the part, but getting a quality pant to protect you from the elements can make a big difference.

Word of warning for any snowboarders, you’ll be spending plenty of time sat on the snow & a cold wet bum isn’t going to add to leave you with a smile! Invest in a descent pant & you’ll be laughing at your mates!

The pants we stock have all been given a thorough test. If they’re found in our stores then they’ll do the job!